Artificial Preservatives in Skincare: Why They Are Not Worth the Risk
Table of Contents
The function of preservatives in skincare formulation is to prevent mould and avoid all kinds of bacteria to develop, especially in water-based products. Oils, for instance, do not require preservatives as microbes cannot grow in a water-free environment. However, not all preservatives are created equal and there's not one-solution-fits-all. Preservatives in skincare are amongst the most allergenic ingredients.
Skin and body care products are readily absorbed through the skin in the long term, and these risky ingredients may be linked to endocrine disruption, serious skin irritations such as contact dermatitis and neurotoxicity. Formaldehyde-releasing preservatives, for instance, are used to inhibit the growth of bacteria, but Formaldehyde is an environmental pollutant and its toxic effects on the immune system have been mentioned in studies (1). Other studies refer to DMDM Hydantoin and Quaternium-15 as skin and eyes irritants, triggering allergies (2). Phenoxyethanol, which was for a long time considered to be a safe option is not allowed under the ECOCERT and COSMOS standards because it is petrochemical in origin, and European regulators have reviewed its use in products for young children (3).
Therefore, as companies, we have this responsibility to come up with solutions that maintain the formula's stability without disrupting the skin's fragile balance.
Alternative preservation solutions, of natural origins
Of course, more studies should be conducted but since there are fewer problematic alternatives available, we highly recommend making the switch. At FEY Cosmetics, we use a natural preservative system based on Glyceryl Caprylate and Glyceryl Undecylenate (4) in combination with Grapefruit Seed Extract and Potassium Sorbate. This system is ECOCERT and COSMOS certified.
Grapefruit seed extract is high in antimicrobial and disinfectant properties, thus used to preserve skin care products. Often blended with vegetable glycerin to avoid any irritation risk. Glyceryl Caprylate (out of plant origin) and Glyceryl monoesters are versatile antimicrobial additives. Their moisturizing and re-fatting properties assist with improving and maintaining the moisture and balanced environment of the skin.
Potassium Sorbate is a commonly found preservative in natural skincare, a mild alternative developed from sorbic acid. A derivative of berries, Potassium Sorbate is effective against fungi, mould, and yeast, but has to be combined with other preservatives to fight bacteria. There is a system made out of Benzyl Alcohol, Salicylic Acid, Glycerin and Sorbic Acid that also meets ECOCERT and COSMOS Standards. Japanese Honeysuckle is rich in P-hydroxy Benzoic Acid, a strong antioxidant.
Other alternatives are systems blending sugarcane with vegetable acids. Vitamin C can also help the product stay stable. Ethylhexylglycerin is often used alongside other preservatives as a gentler option.
Certain plant oils and essential oils have the potential to act as preservatives (or used within an elaborated preservative system) because of their antifungal and antibacterial properties. Neem oil, cinnamon, eucalyptus, sandalwood, rosemary, clove, lavender, citrus, tea tree, and thyme are some examples.
ACQUA Hydrating Face & Neck Serum
A vitamin C and hyaluronic acid serum whose gentle preservation system includes grapefruit seed extract and potassium sorbate, with no parabens and no phenoxyethanol. Rated 100/100 on Yuka.
List of problematic preservatives
Artificial preservatives are a growing concern as they can be potentially hazardous. We previously addressed the issues linked to synthetic and petroleum-based ingredients in cosmetics in order to help you choose smarter ingredients. In today's post, we are sharing a list of preservatives, and of other additives often found alongside them, that we steer clear of:
- Parabens (all its derivatives, Butylparaben, Ethylparaben, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Isopropylparaben, Isobutylparaben, etc.)
- Phenoxyethanol
- BHT (Butylated Hydroxytoluene)
- C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
- Diazolidinyl Urea
- Disodium EDTA
- DMDM Hydantoin
- EDTA
- Formaldehyde
- Methylchloroisothiazolinone
- Methylisothiazolinone
- Quaternium-15, -18, -26
- Tetrasodium EDTA
- Germaben ii
- Benzalkonium Chloride
- Cetalkonium Chloride
- Cetrimonium Chloride
- Stearalkonium Chloride
- Lauryl Dimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen
- Diethyl Ester Dimethyl Ammonium Chloride
- Dialkyl Dimethyl Ammonium Methyl Sulfate
- Hydroxyethyl Methyl Ammonium Methyl Sulfate
- Chemical DTDMAC (Dimethyl Ditallow Ammonium Chloride)
- Synthetic fragrance
Certain preservatives are initially of natural origins yet end up being synthesized in a lab to become petrochemical derivatives (e.g. sodium benzoate), because synthetic versions are cheaper to manufacture. Therefore, it is crucial that the INCI's list specifies if it is of natural or artificial origin.
Artificial preservatives are one of many ingredients on our black-list — see the complete list of what else we exclude, and why.
At FEY Cosmetics, we are committed to providing skincare using plant synergy and cutting-edge formulation, hence resorting to plant-powered preservatives to maintain stable and potent products.
Shop Skincare Free of These Preservatives
FEY skincare leaves out every preservative listed above and is rated 100/100 on Yuka. Start with our best sellers, or build your own routine with the Build Your Own Beauty Bundle: the more products you add, the more you save. FEY skincare is made in Montréal, Canada.
If your skin reacts easily, explore our skincare for sensitive skin, or browse all our natural skincare, formulated without these preservatives.
